Repairing Your Own Clocks
By Mervyn Passmore

© Copyright
Mervyn Passmore 2005

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Contents
    Introduction
    Which clock to begin on?
    Hand Removal
        Pin and Collet
        Hand nut
        Friction fitting
    Removing the dial
    Letting down mainsprings
    To strip or not to strip?
        Cleaning without stripping down
    Stripping down the movement
    Repairs
        Pivots
        Bushing:
            Choosing cutting broaches
        Re-facing the pallets
        Checking the crutch and yoke
        The Platform Escapement
            Ordering a replacement platform
            Fitting a new platform
        Broken and Missing Pieces
            Broken teeth
            Suspensions.
            Clock chain
            Clock glass
            Mainsprings
            Pendulums
            Gong rods
            Winding keys
    Cleaning the dismantled movement
        Pegging out
        Using an ultrasonic tank
    Lacquering
    Re-assembly
    Lubrication
    Re-assembling and Setting up
    Setting up
        Siting
        Regulation
    Tips, Hints & Helps
        Bluing
        Silver soldering
        Soft soldering
        Dial Silvering
        Splicing 30 hour rope
        Black Marble or slate cases
    Tables
        Broach table
        Train count table

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Cleaning without stripping down

If you have decided to go ahead and clean the movement without stripping it down for attention, and provided that it lies within the categories described earlier, prepare the movement for cleaning.

There are various proprietary brands of cleaning fluid available and these have considerable advantages over home-made mixtures. Some are water soluble concentrates to which you add 7 parts of water to every one of fluid.

Others are oil or spirit based cleaners that are normally used in ultrasonic cleaning machines. Ultrasonic cleaners are tanks of liquid with transducers behind the sides or bottom. These transducers create such high speed vibrations in the fluid that the dirt and contamination is literally knocked out of the pivot holes. They are almost indispensable in a busy workshop, particularly for servicing small alarm clocks and other mechanisms not needing to be stripped.

Avoid inhaling the fumes from any of the cleaning fluids on the market, and  always read the labels. Wear safety protection where appropriate, such as chemical resistant gloves and eye protection.

Immerse the movement in the fluid. Any part not immersed will be marked along the fluid line, so be sure to use a container large enough. The time taken to remove the oil, tarnish etc. will depend on the condition of the movement. Check after about 10 minutes. Light brushing will help loosen the grime. A convenient vessel for immersing the movement is a plastic tub with a lid. When the brass is clean and free of grease etc., remove it from the solution and rinse thoroughly in warm water.

It is essential to dry the movement thoroughly to prevent rust forming on the steel. Ensure that no moisture is trapped between the coils of a spring. A hair dryer is one way of drying out the movement, but remember that they are not designed for use in wet environments or with flammable liquids, and there could be a risk of electrocution. When thoroughly dry, refer to the chapter on oiling.

Many clock repairers will decry this section on the grounds that the clock needs to be dismantled and checked. They are right, but if the alternative is the dustbin, then surely this action is justified?



This document is © copyright M&P 2005
© Copyright Meadows & Passmore Ltd and Mervyn Passmore 2005
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