Repairing Your Own Clocks

	Repairing Your Own Clocks By Mervyn Passmore	© Copyright Mervyn Passmore 2005 M&P Home


	Copyright notice
	Contents
	Introduction
	Which clock to begin on?
	Hand Removal
	Pin and Collet
	Hand nut
	Friction fitting
	Removing the dial
	Letting down mainsprings
	To strip or not to strip?
	Cleaning without stripping down
	Stripping down the movement
	Repairs
	Pivots
	Bushing:
	Choosing cutting broaches
	Re-facing the pallets
	Checking the crutch and yoke
	The Platform Escapement
	Ordering a replacement platform
	Fitting a new platform
	Broken and Missing Pieces
	Broken teeth
	Suspensions.
	Clock chain
	Clock glass
	Mainsprings
	Pendulums
	Gong rods
	Winding keys
	Cleaning the dismantled movement
	Pegging out
	Using an ultrasonic tank
	Lacquering
	Re-assembly
	Lubrication
	Re-assembling and Setting up
	Setting up
	Siting
	Regulation
	Tips, Hints & Helps
	Bluing
	Silver soldering
	Soft soldering
	Dial Silvering
	Splicing 30 hour rope
	Black Marble or slate cases
	Tables
	Broach table
	Train count table

Home

Checking the crutch and yoke

Either side of the pendulum rod is the metal of the yoke, and this imparts the energy to maintain the swing. If through wear the gap between them has become greater than intended, energy will be lost.

Check the gap between the pendulum and the yoke
A worn crutch.

In some cases the sides of the yoke can be closed up. Where the drive is imparted through a slot in the pendulum, a slight alteration in suspension length will introduce a fresh unworn surface. If this is possible, then the bob rating nut should be adjusted to compensate for any suspension length alteration.

A wooden rod with a worn metal yoke
A wooded wallclock pendulum with a brass plate.