Repairing Your Own Clocks
By Mervyn Passmore

© Copyright
Mervyn Passmore 2005

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Contents
    Introduction
    Which clock to begin on?
    Hand Removal
        Pin and Collet
        Hand nut
        Friction fitting
    Removing the dial
    Letting down mainsprings
    To strip or not to strip?
        Cleaning without stripping down
    Stripping down the movement
    Repairs
        Pivots
        Bushing:
            Choosing cutting broaches
        Re-facing the pallets
        Checking the crutch and yoke
        The Platform Escapement
            Ordering a replacement platform
            Fitting a new platform
        Broken and Missing Pieces
            Broken teeth
            Suspensions.
            Clock chain
            Clock glass
            Mainsprings
            Pendulums
            Gong rods
            Winding keys
    Cleaning the dismantled movement
        Pegging out
        Using an ultrasonic tank
    Lacquering
    Re-assembly
    Lubrication
    Re-assembling and Setting up
    Setting up
        Siting
        Regulation
    Tips, Hints & Helps
        Bluing
        Silver soldering
        Soft soldering
        Dial Silvering
        Splicing 30 hour rope
        Black Marble or slate cases
    Tables
        Broach table
        Train count table

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Winding keys

Always use the correct key for a clock. Standard keys are available in brass or steel. Generally, keys made from brass are preferable to those made from steel because they are softer. It is a better plan to wear the key down over time than wear the clock arbor. Brass keys are normally fatter than steel ones, because the material is weaker, so you may need to use a steel one, especially on French clocks where the hole in the dial is minimal.

There are two numbering systems to be found, in addition to the basic dimensions across the flats. The English system increments differently to the Continental one and as keys are often only marked with a number you cannot normally tell which system it refers to. Referring to a key by number is therefore almost meaningless. The old numbering systems have now been replaced by metric measurement of the arbor across the flat surfaces. When a clock is dismantled, examine the flats of the winding arbors and square them off with a file if necessary. Measure across the flats if a new key is needed, or try a bunch of new keys to find the best fit. A loose key will damage and round off the corners of the arbor.

A winding Key Sizing Guage is a useful tool for measuring old keys.

This table shows why you cannot order a key by number alone. You would also need to indicate the numbering system. Only a number 3 key is the same in both systems.

Key no. English European
000 2.00 1.75
00 2.20 2.00
0 2.40 2.25
1 2.60 2.50
2 2.80 2.75
3 3.00 3.00
4 3.20 3.25
5 3.40 3.50
6 3.60 3.75
7 3.80 4.00
8 4.00 4.25
9 4.20 4.50
10 4.40 4.75
11 4.60 5.00
12 4.80 5.25
13 5.00 5.50
14 5.20 5.75
15 5.40 6.00
16 5.60 6.25
17 5.80 6.50
18 6.00 6.75
19 6.20 7.00
20 6.40 7.25

There are also two watch key systems, which go in reverse order.



This document is © copyright M&P 2005
© Copyright Meadows & Passmore Ltd and Mervyn Passmore 2005
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