Repairing Your Own Clocks

	Repairing Your Own Clocks By Mervyn Passmore	© Copyright Mervyn Passmore 2005 M&P Home


	Copyright notice
	Contents
	Introduction
	Which clock to begin on?
	Hand Removal
	Pin and Collet
	Hand nut
	Friction fitting
	Removing the dial
	Letting down mainsprings
	To strip or not to strip?
	Cleaning without stripping down
	Stripping down the movement
	Repairs
	Pivots
	Bushing:
	Choosing cutting broaches
	Re-facing the pallets
	Checking the crutch and yoke
	The Platform Escapement
	Ordering a replacement platform
	Fitting a new platform
	Broken and Missing Pieces
	Broken teeth
	Suspensions.
	Clock chain
	Clock glass
	Mainsprings
	Pendulums
	Gong rods
	Winding keys
	Cleaning the dismantled movement
	Pegging out
	Using an ultrasonic tank
	Lacquering
	Re-assembly
	Lubrication
	Re-assembling and Setting up
	Setting up
	Siting
	Regulation
	Tips, Hints & Helps
	Bluing
	Silver soldering
	Soft soldering
	Dial Silvering
	Splicing 30 hour rope
	Black Marble or slate cases
	Tables
	Broach table
	Train count table

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Lacquering

It is general practice to lacquer the two plates and the pendulum with special lacquer. Various shades are available depending on the style and shade of case. Colourless is used for carriage clocks and 'All brass' clocks. The remaining shades are used with wooden cases, with dark woods having dark gold lacquer. Never lacquer the wheels.

Apply the lacquer with a swab of cotton wool very thinly. The lacquer is very quick drying and any second attempt will leave traces of cotton wool behind. If you make a mistake, remove the lacquer with methylated spirits and start again. Leave for at least 12 hours to harden.