Repairing Your Own Clocks

	Repairing Your Own Clocks By Mervyn Passmore	© Copyright Mervyn Passmore 2005 M&P Home


	Copyright notice
	Contents
	Introduction
	Which clock to begin on?
	Hand Removal
	Pin and Collet
	Hand nut
	Friction fitting
	Removing the dial
	Letting down mainsprings
	To strip or not to strip?
	Cleaning without stripping down
	Stripping down the movement
	Repairs
	Pivots
	Bushing:
	Choosing cutting broaches
	Re-facing the pallets
	Checking the crutch and yoke
	The Platform Escapement
	Ordering a replacement platform
	Fitting a new platform
	Broken and Missing Pieces
	Broken teeth
	Suspensions.
	Clock chain
	Clock glass
	Mainsprings
	Pendulums
	Gong rods
	Winding keys
	Cleaning the dismantled movement
	Pegging out
	Using an ultrasonic tank
	Lacquering
	Re-assembly
	Lubrication
	Re-assembling and Setting up
	Setting up
	Siting
	Regulation
	Tips, Hints & Helps
	Bluing
	Silver soldering
	Soft soldering
	Dial Silvering
	Splicing 30 hour rope
	Black Marble or slate cases
	Tables
	Broach table
	Train count table

Home

Lubrication

Provided that you are happy with the assembly of the clock, now is the time to apply some oil. The main problem the amateur experiences with oiling is how not to apply too much. A clock pivot simply requires enough oil to fill the space between it and its hole. The oil cups should not be filled to the brim, and no oil should run down the plates. Wheels in the train are never oiled. Lightly oil levers and parts that rub against each other. Apply a fine drop to one of the escape wheel teeth, which will soon spread itself evenly around the wheel.

Only fine quality clock oil should be used on clock movements. Clock oil is produced in a manner that inhibits thickening. Ordinary oils will thicken and dry up causing the movement to wear.

Applying a small drop of oil