Repairing Your Own Clocks
By Mervyn Passmore

© Copyright
Mervyn Passmore 2005

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Contents
    Introduction
    Which clock to begin on?
    Hand Removal
        Pin and Collet
        Hand nut
        Friction fitting
    Removing the dial
    Letting down mainsprings
    To strip or not to strip?
        Cleaning without stripping down
    Stripping down the movement
    Repairs
        Pivots
        Bushing:
            Choosing cutting broaches
        Re-facing the pallets
        Checking the crutch and yoke
        The Platform Escapement
            Ordering a replacement platform
            Fitting a new platform
        Broken and Missing Pieces
            Broken teeth
            Suspensions.
            Clock chain
            Clock glass
            Mainsprings
            Pendulums
            Gong rods
            Winding keys
    Cleaning the dismantled movement
        Pegging out
        Using an ultrasonic tank
    Lacquering
    Re-assembly
    Lubrication
    Re-assembling and Setting up
    Setting up
        Siting
        Regulation
    Tips, Hints & Helps
        Bluing
        Silver soldering
        Soft soldering
        Dial Silvering
        Splicing 30 hour rope
        Black Marble or slate cases
    Tables
        Broach table
        Train count table

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Dial Silvering

Brass dials requiring re-silvering should be cleaned back to the brass with fine abrasive paper. If a 'spun' effect is required, put a nail in a piece of old board and rotate the dial around it while holding fine emery paper on the surface. Fill numerals in etched dials with black engravers wax. If the old wax is just cracked, hold the dial over a spirit lamp to heat the wax just enough for the cracks to disappear. If the wax is missing or insufficient, add a few flakes of it to the numerals and heat gently.

Rub the surface back down again if necessary to be level with the dial. Rinse under hot water and rub silvering powder into the surface with a clean cloth or tissue. Rinse again and apply finishing powder. Rinse once more and when dry apply colourless lacquer. Only use lacquer formulated for this purpose, as many lacquers will dissolve the shellac in engravers wax spoiling the work. Only lacquer once and do it quickly and confidently. Too much friction on the wax will make it smear. Insufficient or surplus lacquer can cause 'rainbow' effects.

Cleanliness is of paramount importance when silvering and almost all problems encountered are due to finger marks on the metal between cleaning and applying the powder. Silvering powder acts by chemical reaction with the metal, and if this cannot take place evenly, an uneven colouring occurs



This document is © copyright M&P 2005
© Copyright Meadows & Passmore Ltd and Mervyn Passmore 2005
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