Repairing Your Own Clocks
By Mervyn Passmore

© Copyright
Mervyn Passmore 2005

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Contents
    Introduction
    Which clock to begin on?
    Hand Removal
        Pin and Collet
        Hand nut
        Friction fitting
    Removing the dial
    Letting down mainsprings
    To strip or not to strip?
        Cleaning without stripping down
    Stripping down the movement
    Repairs
        Pivots
        Bushing:
            Choosing cutting broaches
        Re-facing the pallets
        Checking the crutch and yoke
        The Platform Escapement
            Ordering a replacement platform
            Fitting a new platform
        Broken and Missing Pieces
            Broken teeth
            Suspensions.
            Clock chain
            Clock glass
            Mainsprings
            Pendulums
            Gong rods
            Winding keys
    Cleaning the dismantled movement
        Pegging out
        Using an ultrasonic tank
    Lacquering
    Re-assembly
    Lubrication
    Re-assembling and Setting up
    Setting up
        Siting
        Regulation
    Tips, Hints & Helps
        Bluing
        Silver soldering
        Soft soldering
        Dial Silvering
        Splicing 30 hour rope
        Black Marble or slate cases
    Tables
        Broach table
        Train count table

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Black Marble or slate cases

Wooden cases are covered fully in the range of books onfurniture restoration available, but marble clocks are fairly unique to the restorer.

There is no magic chemical formula for restoring a black mirror finish to dulled and greying slate (actually a limestone). The correct method involves completely dismantling the case and re-polishing each individual piece with sophisticated polishing machinery. Dismantling can do more harm than good because the cases were often wired and cemented together very firmly, and re-polishing requires special skills. The greyness of the case is the result of years of oxidation, particularly as a result of the heat from Victorian fireplaces.

Some 'experts' suggest rubbing with fine abrasive paper but you should be very careful if you do this. Under the oxidised layer is often a coarse material which will not take a shine easily.

M&P's Slate Blacking is a compound made especially for this purpose and will normally produce an excellent finish unless the surface is very grey. To stain marble clocks, it is important to remember that only a small mount of blacking need be absorbed for it to work

For a sucessful application, apply the least amount possible. The product is so strong that the least amount absorbed by the surface should be sufficent to stain it. Having been left to soak in, remove all the surface with a cloth.

A final coat of Beeswax Polish should bring a deep black shine to the surface.

Many marble clocks had fine gilt lines engraved in the case. In most instances, this is in good condition but under years of grime. When the case has been blackened, waxed and polished, take a pointed instrument like a piece of sharpened pegwood and follow the lines. You should find the grime comes out leaving the original gold showing. If this fails to work, clean out the grooves thoroughly and gild with transfer gold leaf.



This document is © copyright M&P 2005
© Copyright Meadows & Passmore Ltd and Mervyn Passmore 2005
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