Repairing Your Own Clocks
By Mervyn Passmore

© Copyright
Mervyn Passmore 2005

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Contents
    Introduction
    Which clock to begin on?
    Hand Removal
        Pin and Collet
        Hand nut
        Friction fitting
    Removing the dial
    Letting down mainsprings
    To strip or not to strip?
        Cleaning without stripping down
    Stripping down the movement
    Repairs
        Pivots
        Bushing:
            Choosing cutting broaches
        Re-facing the pallets
        Checking the crutch and yoke
        The Platform Escapement
            Ordering a replacement platform
            Fitting a new platform
        Broken and Missing Pieces
            Broken teeth
            Suspensions.
            Clock chain
            Clock glass
            Mainsprings
            Pendulums
            Gong rods
            Winding keys
    Cleaning the dismantled movement
        Pegging out
        Using an ultrasonic tank
    Lacquering
    Re-assembly
    Lubrication
    Re-assembling and Setting up
    Setting up
        Siting
        Regulation
    Tips, Hints & Helps
        Bluing
        Silver soldering
        Soft soldering
        Dial Silvering
        Splicing 30 hour rope
        Black Marble or slate cases
    Tables
        Broach table
        Train count table

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Removing the dial

The dial will normally be fixed to the case or the movement.

When attached to case: Where it is desired to remove the dial from the case, this seldom involves more than a few woodscrews. In turn, the movement will be secured to the case by woodscrews.

When attached to movement: First of all, remove the hands from the movement as described in the section entitled 'Hand removal'. Many movements are secured directly to the dial by use of tapered pins inserted diagonally through feet attached to the dial. Carefully remove these pins (and no others) and ease the dial off. Be extra careful not to remove any other pins at this stage as the mainsprings will still have power in them. Enamelled dials are normally secured to a brass backing plate and this whole plate should be removed. Take great care when removing the enamelled dial from the plate (if absolutely necessary) because the action of bending the soft copper wires on the back may cause the enamel on the front to chip.

Removing the pin from a dial foot

At this stage it is wise to collect up all the parts and lay them carefully in the correct order. Make a note of how they were fitted as they will not be needed until much later on.

Warning
Never work on a clock movement with the mainspring wound. A fully wound mainspring contains a tremendous amount of potential energy which is safe if allowed to escape at a controlled rate. If, for instance, the plates of a clock are separated with the springs wound, then the energy will be released suddenly and may strip the teeth from a wheel or remove the skin from a fingertip - you have been warned! Please refer to the section entitled 'Letting down mainsprings'.



This document is © copyright M&P 2005
© Copyright Meadows & Passmore Ltd and Mervyn Passmore 2005
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